Alpine Solitude
Week 23
Week 23
Attempting to stay as up to date as possible, but this is my last apology for tardiness until such a time as I enjoy multiple early endings to class each week, pixies are used to light street lamps and trains run on sugar water. Sarcasm, it's what's for dinner.
So, I guess this is for 2 weeks ago. It was a fairly average week, nothing amazing. During the business part of it, I spent most of my time, well, teaching as per usual. The schedule has taken some getting used to, but I'm starting to really get into the groove.
I'm continuing to ask most of my students about the market crash and what their opinions are. Of course the outlook is still generally dire, but I suppose skepticism is the better policy in this situation.
Disregarding any major financial problems (which I am having right now due to a delayed money transfer back to Canadian soil), the weekend rolled to a stop and boarded without any concern.
Sunday saw me headed down Shinjuku way to pick up a couple of books. The primary objective was acquiring Lonely Planet's "Hiking in Japan", a guide book of most the most esteemed caliber. I duly acquired this most hallowed of tomes along with that which occupied my secondary objective, Cormac McCarthy's The Road. I'd just recently finished reading McCarthy's very well known No Country for Old Men, which was excellent but, sadly, spoiled for me by the Coen brother's recent and equally excellent film adaptation. Part of my motivation for reading this book was so that it would not be spoiled by the impending release of the film version of the The Road. Additionally, the book I was reading at the time, 1914-1918, a history book on WWI, turned out to be less about the tactics and instead focuses on a more geo-political level. It kind of irks me when a book glosses over a campaign that lasts several months and sees millions die with a brief description of casualty numbers and movements of the fronts.
Pet peeve.
My tertiary and quaternary objectives were left unfulfilled. I had intended to pick up a copy of Into the Wild as well, mostly on the recommendation of a certain Mair, and the essence of literary quality that I found nestled between the pages of Krakauer's other book, Into Thin Air. Sadly, I left empty handed.
I also briefly debated attending a film screening at Cinema World, which is just down the street from Shinjuku station. Nothing I wanted to see was starting around the time that I got there, which is really odd. It was around 6:30-7:00. Back at the theater in Canada almost every movie playing in the theater would be screening then. Eh. With a shrug I moseyed on back to my apartment where I began to peruse the guidebook and discovered an activity for Monday.
Ian's Hikes - Part 1 - Takao San to Jimba-San
The first hike that I chose to do from the book was a relatively simple one. Approximately 19 km, it started from the base of Mt. Takao in Takao-san-guchi. I began at the bottom of the mountain, bypassing the optional cable car ride that would take me most of the way up. Instead, I climbed up a narrow valley that follows the flow of a small creek.
Just before I left the paved streets for the real climb itself, I stopped to take a picture of a bunch of stone statues. A Japanese man stopped and commented on the make of my camera, which led to me receiving a surprise hiking companion for the next fifteen minutes. His name was Isao, and he is quite the amateur photographer. He still uses old style film cameras in fact, therefore making a member of a dying breed. Isao is apparently a fairly active alpinist too, especially for an elderly fellow. Fuji has been bested by his boot-clad feet no less than 4 times. Takao-san sees his bootprints on the summit multiple times each year as well. We talked a bit about photography before I peeled off to take a few pictures while he went on ahead.
The walk up the valley was quite tranquil. There were a number of other hikers on the trail, but not too many. The path wound through ram rod straight old growth cedar, the path itself constructed partially out of their venous root structures. Beautiful, especially since the trees also did a nice job of keeping the unusually hot sun off of me.
I stopped for a short while at a shrine located adjacent to the trail. The small complex is neighbour to a 5 meter waterfall which is apparently used by monks to train up their asceticism. The shrine was one of those things that struck me as kind of timeless. If you wound the clock back five hundred years I could easily imagine samurai tramping by on a full moon night, swords slung heavily over their shoulders, on the way over the mountains to do battle on the Kansai plains...
Awesome.
The rest of the trip up was fairly uneventful. After starting at around 11:30 AM, I summited Takao (at a scant 599m) shortly before 1PM. The relatively low altitude and the proximity to Tokyo has contributed heavily to the development at the top of the mountain. There's a paved road all the way to the top, doubtlessly one of those extra public works projects the Japanese government likes so much. I actually had to dodge out of the way of a small van right before I got to the top. I was a bit surprised to see a car up there there, but hey, this is Japan, convenience and ease of use is key.
There were a few classes worth of elementary school kids up around the summit, taking pictures with teachers and generally running around like crazy. Pretty cool field trip to go on, I guess.
The weirdest part was the interaction that I had with a guy up at the top of the mountain. I was taking a few pictures of the surrounding landscape when a Japanese fellow who was in his early 30s asked me about climbing the mountain. I told him yes, and then we started talking. Seemed like a nice enough dude, pretty easy going all and all. We talked about where we worked and why we were up the mountain that day and so forth.
Then he asked me if I played sports.
To which I replied in the affirmative, but added the qualification that I only really play winter sports.
He then told me that I should come play badminton with him.
And that he has another foreigner friend that he plays with who is from Laos.
Okay.
Nothing against badminton, but when I said "I like hockey and skiing" badminton is about the furthest opposite, sitting right next to "air rifle target shooting".
So yeah, colour me perplexed.
He kept on talking up his badminton games and before long asked for my phone number...I countered by asking him for his card, which he gave to me. I then proceeded to give him a fake phone number. I'll admit, this was a mean thing to do, but I never want to play badminton unless it's during a tea party at a British manor while the butler holds the extra shuttlecocks and the grounds are patrolled by the most exquisitely cared for Ostriches.
Also, who invites you to play badminton the first time they meet you? That's just weird.
I moved on from Takao shortly thereafter.
The trail I took runs across a ridge line for about 10 kilometers, heading over the summits of 4 increasingly taller mountains before ending at Jimba-san at an altitude of 897m. Since I was hiking on a Monday, and due to the lateness of the season, the trails were almost completely dead as soon as I left Takao-san. I would say, over the next 5 hours of hiking I only ran into about a dozen people. In the last 2 hours I ran into almost no one.
The trail was picturesque, winding along through the high altitude cedar. I'll just quickly list off a few of the best points between Takao-San and Jimba-San.
- Seeing a gigantic, orange, Japanese wasp. This thing was maybe an inch long and looked incredibly solidly built in addition to being coloured orange. Crazy.
- Happening across my first naturally occurring and city-free bamboo stand. Standing beside that verdant spray of trunks was a moment I'd been waiting almost six months for on this trip. Absolutely breathtaking.
- I saw two very spooky things on this portion of the hike. One was what must have been a pretty big rest stop that used to be in operation about 1/4 of the way from Takao to Jimba. Everything was broken down and ruined looking. To top it off, there was a poorly laminated piece of paper with a man's portrait and a bunch of writing hung on the wall of one of the buildings...It reminded me of a Japanese horror film called The Cure, very creepy. The other was this insanely gnarled old tree in the middle of a huge stand of perfectly straight cedar. It's pictured above.
- The spiders. Apparently they're super brightly coloured in this part of Japan. I noticed a number and got a very nice picture of one.
- Watching a group of Japanese lumberjacks fell a few trees. Lumberjacks appear to be much more efficient and more sharply dressed than North American ones. They also had these really awesome split-toed rain boats. Totally cool.
- Admiring the Kanto plain and being simply dumbstruck at the size of Tokyo. What's even more amazing is that even the largest city on Earth looks tiny compared to these relatively small mountains.
I made it to Jimba-san at dusk, which was not a good thing. I quickly snapped a few shots with the white concrete horse at the top of the mountain. Yes, it's SUPPOSED to be a horse. That's not what it looks like though. I then admired the dusk as it slowly rolled over the Japanese alps before quickly jogging down a long flight of stairs to a parking lot a couple hundred meters from the summit of Jimba.
Here I was struck with a rather unfortunate revelation.
The last 3 1/2 kilometers of the hike ran along a mountain road rife with switchbacks and lacking both sidewalks and street lights. It was at this point that I was very, very glad that I brought my headlamp and flashlight along. Cars were whipping up and down that road pretty fast, and the road itself was only wide enough for 1.5 cars. The next 45 minutes of the descent involved a pretty tense situation where I'd be listening for cars coming up or down the mountain and stopping quickly and pressing myself up against the guard rail every time they got close. Slow going at times, which was further exacerbated by the fog that started to show up towards the bottom of the valley. This, combined with the loud waterfalls on the valley floor that did a good job of obscuring cars' engine noise made the end of the hike fairly unpleasant. The worst were the hybrid cars...you just can't hear them coming!
But, since I'm typing this, you know I made it down okay. I'll be setting out earlier next time though.
I grabbed a bus at the bottom of the road and headed back to my apartment where I had departed from nearly 10 hours earlier. Tired, but happy. That was quite the hike.
And that's also the end of the week! I should have the post for next week up fairly soon, followed by possibly a Thailand post this weekend.
I remain the always safety conscious...
Ian "Mello Yello" Cantello
(Pictures: 1- Shrine on Takao-San, 2 - View from Takao-San summit, 3 - Taken shortly after leaving Takao-san summit, 4, 5, 6, 7 - Various points on the way to Jimba-san, 8,9 - summit of Jimba-san at dusk)