Expressly Reptilian
Week 48
Preparation.
Two weeks countdown to the big trip and the longest holiday in Japan, Golden Week.
Yep, pretty much spent the whole week talking to friends and making plans for the coming expedition down the coast of Asia to Malaysia
The week was again unremarkable. Made it through no problem to the weekend. I unexpectedly managed to throw together a hiking expedition for that weekend. I was totally down for it, but also just a bit concerned that I wouldn't have enough time to prep myself for the big trip the weekend after.
Sunday saw me waking up nice and early to head out to Tsukuba-san, the hike that I aborted in early march in favour of Takao redux. Early morning wake up and the 9AM train out of Akihabara to Tsukuba station. Waking up early is about the only aspect of hiking that I really despise.
It was actually a lot more difficult than I was expecting getting out there due to a problem with the publication date of my hiking guide. It was written in 2001. Yep. I didn’t think this would be such a huge problem but as it turns it a lot can happen in eight years. The route described in my book involved a trip on a rather obscure line from Ueno out to a rural train station, followed by two bus rides to the base of Tsukuba mountain.
Fortunately, in addition to Shinsuke coming along on this trip so too did an acquaintance of the fall previous. Rowena, who I saw a few times before Zoey left Japan, joined us in this excursion with some interesting information. She had in fact been to Tsukuba on a previous occasion and saw the wisdom in informing me about the Tsukuba express line, a much faster, much more direct route to the mountain in question.
I therefore ended up starting out my ex-Tokyo journey from Akihabara instead, where I met with the two other hikers on the train. A short 40 minute ride later brought us to Tsukuba station and the bus ride out to the mountain. 30 minutes after that we finally stepped out onto the gentle grade at the bottom of the mountain and started our way out.
Tsukuba is an interesting mountain. It’s located in Ibaraki, near Chiba, which is one of the flatter sections of Japan, at least towards the south of the prefecture anyways. Tsukuba-san is therefore rather unsurprising as a popular hiking destination and possessor of the mantle of holiest mountain in the Kanto region, other than Fuji.
The hike began with a short walk through a small temple before starting up the mountain proper. Shortly after beginning of this section we startled a small snake that slithered off through the grass. The weather was amazing and I guess the little reptile had decided to sun itself in a nice bright spot during the early afternoon.
The trail was pleasant on the way up the mountain. It was heavily forested with some fairly old, good sized Japanese cedar. The path itself wasn’t boring either, which was not what I was expecting. The hike was described as being “easy” in my book, but the terrain was a mix of exposed roots and light rock scrambles. Lots of fun to get up, but not too stressful. There was a good amount of stairs too, but nothing too rough. The heat was a little bit annoying, but nothing we couldn’t get past.
We made it to the top just past 12. No problemo.
Tsukuba has a sort of unusual shape, a double peak. The trail we took to the top deposited us on the saddle between these two peaks, where the ropeway terminates. A short stop for lunch later and we were on our way to the taller of the mountain’s two peaks. It was a bit uninspiring though. The temple at the top was kind of small and a little bit overdeveloped, more concrete than I would like. Unfortunately, the weather was also quite humid so we did not exactly get a good view of the surrounding countryside from up there.
After heading down from there we took a stroll around a little nature path that circled the summit maybe fifty meters down off the summit. We had a few nice views from there and was substantially less busy. Many of the Japanese hikers were there to do flower viewing. Or so I gathered considering the number of elderly couples bent double inspecting undergrowth from about 3 cms away...or aiming expensive digital cameras at the same. I saw some rather interesting flowers myself, including something that really closely resembled a Jack-in-the-Pulpit.
After finishing the loop and coming back to the saddle we grabbed some ice cream to cool off before continuing the journey. Mine was sesame flavoured and quite good. The rest of the hike involved, of course, assailing the lower of the two peaks. On the way there we passed by a very distinctive rock that is shaped somewhat like a toad. There’s a local legend that if you manage to throw a pebble into the toads mouth and have it stay there you will receive good luck. We all tried and failed. It’s actually quite difficult, especially if you limit yourself to one throw. After that we headed to the summit of the lower mountain.
This one was a lot nicer than the first. The temple was better developed, but not overdeveloped, and the rocks that capped the top of the mountain were kind of fun to climb around on and relax for a bit. We snapped a few pictures and enjoyed the rather rewarding view before heading down.
After a little bit of confusion we found the trail off the mountain. The trip down wasn’t so bad, just a little bit long, slightly punishing and heavily crowded.
Traffic jam style
So after queuing for a few minutes I got kind of pissed off and started going down the more difficult sections of the path as fast as possible which was way more exciting. Funnily enough, most of the other hikers just seemed to be amused by the three young people jogging down the mountain.
This trail wound through a rock garden on the way down. It was nice, but the names for some of the rocks were a little bit misleading and/or inappropriate.
We also visited a cool little shrine that was only really accessible through a very narrow, long crevice between two massive rocks. Pretty unique. Whenever I see temples on mountains like this I always imagine the monks hundreds of years ago making lonely pilgrimages up barely trafficked slopes to these incredibly infrequently visited little shrines.
That’s not really the feeling anymore, what with the overwhelming number of hiking enthusiasts in Japan.
We wandered on back to the bus stop from at the beginning of the hike and from there caught the bus back to the station. I arrived home a few hours later and relaxed with some movies and games before hitting the sack, tired as I always am after hiking.
Twice in a row at this point for managing to hike with other people. I gotta say, I much prefer it to hiking alone.
Monday was the usual with a twist. I met Melissa in Shinjuku and we went to a Starbucks near the station in order to finalize plans for the Malaysia trip. That night we went to Ben’s again for the final Rock Band night before Golden Week and all of our vacations.
And so that was it. Prepped and ready to go.
Malaysia bound at this point...
Ian "Mello Yello" Cantello